Saint-Paul-de-Vence: what to do in the village of artists
A fortified medieval village set on a hill between Nice and the foothills of the Alps, Saint-Paul-de-Vence has charmed painters, writers and film stars alike. Ramparts, galleries and modern art make it one of the most endearing sites on the Côte d'Azur. Here is what to do, and how to come without worrying about parking.
The ramparts and the old village
You enter Saint-Paul through the Porte de Vence and follow the Rue Grande, the village's backbone, lined with workshops, galleries and Renaissance houses. The rampart walk along the 16th-century walls offers lovely glimpses of the hills and the sea in the distance.
Don't miss the Grande Fontaine square and the collegiate church. The village is explored on foot, at a stroll.
The Maeght Foundation
A few minutes from the village, the Maeght Foundation is one of the finest modern-art museums in Europe: architecture designed for art, gardens dotted with sculptures by Giacometti and Miró, works by Chagall, Calder and Braque. A must for enthusiasts.
Allow at least an hour and a half and check the seasonal opening hours.
In the footsteps of the artists
Saint-Paul owes its fame to the artists who frequented it. La Colombe d'Or, an inn that became legendary, welcomed Picasso, Matisse and Braque, whose works still adorn the place. The painter Marc Chagall rests in the village cemetery, which he chose as his setting.
The galleries of the Rue Grande carry on this legacy: contemporary creation is everywhere.
Vence and the hinterland
A few minutes away, Vence is worth the detour for its old town and the Chapel of the Rosary, decorated by Matisse. The two combine perfectly in a day, along with neighbouring hilltop villages such as Tourrettes-sur-Loup.
This is the whole appeal of a base on the Côte d'Azur: alternating seaside and hinterland within a few kilometres.
How to get there
Saint-Paul-de-Vence is about twenty minutes from Cagnes-sur-Mer and the coast. The car parks at the village entrance fill quickly in season, and the approach can be congested. A private chauffeur drops you at the foot of the ramparts and leaves you free to set your own pace between the village, the Maeght Foundation and Vence.